Istanbul, one of the world’s capitals, is continent- and culture-spanning, rich in history yet always changing, and home to a varied, ever-shifting population. Istanbul, a 16-million-person city, is frantic, with everyone trying to sell you something and traffic that will raise your adrenaline. You can find villages-like neighborhoods in the city center where inhabitants hang their washing between buildings and everyone knows one other.

Explore Balat’s backstreets

Over the past decade, this Roma neighborhood on the Golden Horn has become a hipster hangout with its Instagram-worthy color scheme and steep cobblestone walkways. Fortunately, gentrification is still far off because it’s so remote that you’ll need a map to go here from the nearest public transit stops. There are some great little coffee shops and vintage stores, but you’ll still feel like you’re in an unfamiliar section of the city. If you’re lucky, you might catch one of the area’s large weddings, when everyone floods the streets to celebrate to the gypsy bands.

 Wonder at Hagia Sophia’s dome

Hagia Sophia, built in the 6th century as the world’s largest interior space, still stands out with its 180-foot dome and beautiful mosaics. The Orthodox church has been converted into a mosque, however you must follow the dress requirement and can only enter outside prayer times. Unfortunately, the mosaics are often covered, yet that doesn’t detract from its wonderful interior.

 Imagine being a Topkapi sultan.

Topkapi, the Ottoman sultan’s residence for nearly four centuries, is the perfect site to indulge your Middle Eastern dreams in lavish courtyards and pavilions. The palace has several small museums and faithfully restored interiors, and it is placed in a tranquil park with views of the Bosphorus and Sea of Marmara. Plan a day to see it. Also there is the Istanbul Archaeology Museum. Keep an eye out for the sultan’s concubines and their eunuch slaves’ luxurious harem accommodations.

Walk across Galata bridge

Over the Golden Horn, a minor tributary of the Bosphorus, this short, shallow arch links the historic peninsula to modern Istanbul. The bridge is nothing exceptional, although it has a series of vibrant seafood eateries and is a popular fishing spot. Visit to meet locals and observe the passenger boats from the ports on either side.

Relax in the Suleymaniye Mosque courtyard.

In a busy city of roughly 16 million people, old mosque courtyards are peaceful havens with tinkling fountains and birdsong. Tourists flocking to the neighboring Blue Mosque overlook the Suleymaniye Mosque, Mimar Sinan’s masterpiece. It shouldn’t be: the complex’s white marble-paved courtyard and gardens offer unequaled relaxation. Iznik blue tiles and mother-of-pearl shutters are among the stunning Islamic art within.